Travelling to Bir: Himachal’s offbeat gem

I didn’t know a lot about Bir till last year – popular tourist narratives around the must-visit places in Himachal tend to center around destinations like Manali, Shimla, Dharamshala, and others. I had heard about the town but didn’t really know what I was missing, till I travelled there after visiting Dharamkot. After travelling to Bir and staying for a week, I want to share my experience with others who might be looking for offbeat places to visit in Himachal Pradesh!

Bir, a small town in Himachal Pradesh’s Kangra district, has a unique character — think adventure travel meets spirituality. Most people who have heard of Bir know it as the paragliding capital of India, but there is so much more to this place. If you are interested in visiting, here are some ideas about things to do in Bir (or Bir Billing as the two towns are referred to, together).

11 of the best things to do in Bir Billing:

Paragliding

Let’s get this one out of the way, shall we? Most people travelling to Bir do end up going paragliding. I’d sworn I would not, but I did, and I loved it. Now, about the whole “Bir Billing” thing. Billing is the hilltop site where the gliders take off from, about 14 km away from Bir and at an altitude of 2400 m. From Billing, you glide over hills, pastures, monasteries and eventually land in a pasture at Bir – the landing site. While an experienced glider can go solo, tandem paragliding is available for newbies. No prizes for guessing what I did.

Bir Billing is the second-best paragliding site in Asia, and hosts an annual International Paragliding World Cup that attracts adventure sports lovers from across the world. Sadly, this is currently on hold due to the pandemic, but you can still enjoy the thrill of being up in the air above Bir.

Hike to nearby waterfalls

Bir is the kind of place where you’ll unexpectedly chance upon a beautiful stream on a stroll. I did. But if you like waterfalls (does anybody not?), there are some really pretty ones to be found within a reasonable hiking distance of the town. The hike to the waterfall near Gunehar village is especially popular. If you are staying in a hostel, you can join a waterfall trek organized by the hostel team. Otherwise, just ask locals. Dress in clothes that can take a good soaking!

Catch a gorgeous sunset

I’ve seen some amazing sunsets over the years, but there is something really special about Bir sunsets. Anybody who’s travelled to Bir will say this, and once you’ve been, you’ll agree. Imagine sitting by the landing site, or in a café nearby, watching paragliders slowly descend one by one as the sun disappears over the horizon. Just remember to look up from the camera and view the sight with your own eyes too 😊.

Chill out in the cafes of Bir

There is no dearth of cafes in Bir where you can relax over a good meal and enjoy the ambience. Here are some eating joints that I would recommend for a meal in Bir:

• Avva Café – Amazing South Indian food and great location near the landing site. I loved their welcome drink of rasam with black chana (black gram).
• The Northern Café – Great food and friendly service, though the highlight has to be the sunset you can catch from here. The walk to the café through the fields is part of the draw.
• Ara Café – In Upper Bir, but worth a visit especially for their delicious Himachali thali and great Tibetan fare.
•  June 16 Café – Good coffee and food, but it’s very popular so you might struggle to find a spot
• Bhoomi Café – A quiet little place in the Chougan area, this café offers delicious vegetarian and vegan dishes and baked goods. Also, they bake an amazing sourdough.

Visit the monasteries in and around Bir

Bir has a sizeable Tibetan population and is home to some of the most beautiful Buddhist monasteries in India. Unfortunately, when I visited, the monasteries were closed due to Covid protocols. However, I did get to visit a few them from outside, and hope to return someday to explore them in more detail. The two monasteries that I did get to see partially, remain with me.

Enjoy a joyride on a Toy Train

Less famous than the toy trains of Shimla, Darjeeling and Ooty but equally interesting is the toy train that runs between Pathankot and Joginder Nagar, covering spots along the Kangra Valley. Joginder Nagar is just about a half-hour drive from Bir, though you can also board the train at a tiny station called Ahju that is just outside Bir. You can take the train to Kangra and then continue to Dharamshala from there.

Take a trip to Barot valley

This was one of the best parts of my entire trip. Barot is a village that developed around a hydel power plant in Mandi district. It is now coming up fast as a trekking destination, and a place where you can escape the crowds. Green and breathtakingly beautiful with tall mountains surrounding it and river Uhl running through it, Barot valley is for nature lovers. The spot is known for camping and trout fishing, and you can also trek further from here to Bada Bhangal, Kullu Manali, etc. I spent a therapeutic half hour sitting by the icy-cold river, just listening to the sounds of the water and enjoying being the only one around. You can stay overnight in a guest house in Barot valley, or just make a day-trip from Bir.

Take off on a trek

Bir is a good starting point for treks of varying durations and intensities. Your accommodation provider will most likely be able to arrange for you to join a trek if you haven’t made your own arrangements. Popular trek routes from Bir include Rajgundha, Barot, Bada Bhangal, Parashar Lake, and so on. You can also hike from Bir to Billing – the route is truly scenic.

See Baijnath temple

If you are in Bir for a few days, you should take time to visit the ancient Shiva temple of Baijnath near Palampur. Shiva is worshipped here as Baidyanath, the God of Healing, and people believe that the water here has curative properties. If you are driving between Bir and Dharamshala, you can also visit Baijnath on the way.

Stroll around the tea gardens

Have you ever had a cup of Kangra tea? This is the place it originates from. The region around Palampur and Bir is lush with tea gardens. You’ll find tea bushes along both sides of the road if you take a walk around the Chaugan area. If you want to learn more about the tea grown in the area, you can visit the Bir Co-operative Tea Factory near the Bir market. They offer tours and you can also buy some of the local tea from here.

Learn at the Deer Park Institute

Working entirely on the basis of donations, this institute attracts students from around the world to study Buddhism, philosophy, Tibetan language, Yoga, Ayurveda, and more. The institute regularly organizes meditation and yoga retreat, art workshops, etc. that anybody can attend. They also have a film school within their premises. The core idea behind this institute is to recreate the spirit of Nalanda University.

Though these are some popular things to do on a trip to Bir, I would also highly recommend just stepping out and taking a stroll away from the somewhat touristy market area. You’ll find quiet shady paths, acres of pastures, cute little homes with corn cobs drying on the roofs, and people going about their daily life. Don’t miss that side of Bir.

Travelling to Bir: what you need to know

Thinking of a trip to Bir Billing? Here’s some basic info that might help you.

How do you reach Bir?

Most people travel to Bir by road. Overnight buses arrive into Tibetan Colony in Bir every morning from places like Delhi and Chandigarh.

You can also fly to Dharamshala (Gaggal) airport and take a taxi to Bir from there (a drive of about 3 hours). I was visiting Bir after a long stay in Dharamkot, so I hired a cab to drop me there. The drive took us 2.5 hours, with a stop on the way to visit the Baijnath temple.

When is a good time to plan a trip to Bir?

This depends on what you want to do, as the weather in Bir Billing will impact that. If you want to go paragliding, make sure you visit during the gliding season – paragliding flights shut down during the monsoon and winter months. If you want to be out in nature, any time other than the rainy season ( June to August) and peak winter (December to February) would be great for travelling to Bir.

Where can you stay in Bir Billing?

There are a number of hostels, homestays, and guesthouses that you can book for your stay in Bir. An online search will show you a decent range of options to choose from.

How do travellers get around in Bir?

I enjoyed walking around, with an occasional cab hire for longer distances. However, you can also hire two-wheelers and bicycles from the market if you want to get around conveniently.

How many days do you need in Bir to explore the place well?

That depends on your travel style. You can see everything in two days, or you can stay longer and travel slowly. 

Is Bir a good place for a solo traveller to visit?

I travelled to Bir solo, and it was a great experience. It’s a quiet and safe place, and if you stay in a hostel, you could also make friends with other solo travellers like you. So go ahead and plan that trip now.

So, when are you travelling to Bir? What is your favourite among all the things to do in Bir? Is there something important that I missed? Let me know.