Temples, Coconuts and Ganesha: Hampi in Two Days

History buff that I am, visiting the ancient temples of Hampi had been on my to-do list for quite some time. I recently used a long weekend to make this trip from Delhi to Hampi in two days via Bangalore. If you enjoy history, architecture and nature then you will love Hampi. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in my opinion one of the most underrated places in India. Read on to discover more about the town’s history, the places to visit in Hampi in two days, and the nitty-gritty of planning a trip here.  

Hampi is a small, laid-back sort of town surrounded by paddy fields, coconut trees and banana plantations. The pace of life is much slower than what you’d typically be used to. In that sense, it felt like a mix of Kerala and Goa. There are homestays and small thali-serving “restaurants” everywhere. Coconut sellers place themselves strategically outside the various temple gates, offering them to you when you return from a visit, happy but dehydrated. Coconut water is great for rehydration by the way so drink away. I lost count of the amount of coconut water I got through during my two days in Hampi! 

The historic heart of the town i.e. Hampi Bazaar and its surroundings are considered sacred ground and you will not find any non-vegetarian food or alcohol being served here. To even find an ATM you will have to come out towards Kamalapur. The town survives mostly through income from tourism, as well as the neighbouring industrial belts. It is also a known centre for weaving. Cotton Ilkal saris from Hampi are famous, as are saris and textiles made out of the locally sourced banana-leaf fibre.

 

History of an Ancient Town – Kishkindha to Pampa to Hampi

Hampi derives its name from Pampa, the older name of the Tungabhadra river. The earliest archaeological records found here indicate that Hampi was inhabited by settlers as early as the 1st century AD. It is also believed to have been a part of the Mauryan Empire, and after that ruled by the Chalukyas and the Hoysalas. One can still see some surviving specimens of Hoysala temple architecture here.

The city really came into its own in the medieval times with the rise of the Vijayanagar Empire, the last great Hindu kingdom. The Empire was established in 1336, and Hampi as its capital city grew steadily and flourished as a centre for trade in gems, cotton, spices etc. Hampi was, in the 15th century, the second-largest city in the world (Beijing being the largest) and the richest city in India. It was a thriving metropolis, with a highly developed sense of art, architecture, agriculture and infrastructure. The society was multi-ethnic and multi-religious.

In the latter half of the 16th century, the Kingdom fell to the Deccan Sultans, and Hampi was destroyed, pillaged, and then abandoned. Today the ruins of Hampi consist of nearly 1600 monuments, are spread over an area of over 30 sq. km. Anybody who has seen the temples of Angkor Wat would be struck by the similarity in the layouts of the various groups of temples.

There is another mythological aspect to Hampi as well. It is believed that Hampi is, in fact, the Kishkindha kingdom mentioned in the Ramayana, where Rama and Laxmana met Sugreeva and Hanuman and stayed for some time before leaving for Lanka. In fact, Anegundi, located across the river from Hampi, has a Hanuman temple as well as a hill called Anjaneya Parvat where Hanuman is supposed to have been born.

Bali Sugreeva battle Hampi
Sculpture from a carved pillar showing the battle between Monkey Kings Bali and Sugreeva in Kishkindha

Places to see in Hampi

The ruins of Hampi are clustered into groups; the two main groups are – the temples and sacred monuments around the Hampi Bazaar and the royal enclosure near Kamalapur. The Vijay Vitthal temple stands in solitary grandeur about 2km away from the Hampi Bazaar. There are also various hilltops around Hampi with ruins scattered across.

If you have four or five days, you can visit every monument in detail and cover everything easily. However, given that most people only stay in Hampi for two or three days, I’m giving below a list of the most important places to visit in Hampi in two days.

 

Places to Visit in Hampi in Two Days

  1. Virupaksha Temple

This is one of the most important temples in the area and the only living temple. As you walk up the road to the temple, you will notice roofless stone pavilions along the entire side of the road. These are remains of the lively bazaar that used to exist outside this temple in the 15th century. The temple is dedicated to Virupaksha, a form of Shiva and the patron deity of the Vijayanagar Empire. The original temple was constructed in the 7th century i.e. much before the Vijayanagar kingdom came about. Time your visit to this temple for the early morning to avoid crowds. Also, if you visit in the morning you might get to watch an elephant getting a morning bath at the adjoining river-ghat.

 

Approaching the Virupaksha Temple from Hampi Bazaar
Approach to Virupaksha Temple

 

  1. Sasivekalu Ganesha

This is a monolithic statue of Ganesha, about 8 feet high. Walk around and look at it from the back, and you will see that the sculptor has tried to show Ganesha sitting in Parvati’s lap. “Sasivekalu” in Kannada apparently means mustard and the statue has been thus named because of the similarity of its belly to a mustard seed. Or so I was informed.

 

  1. Kadalekalu Ganesha

Located just a couple of minutes’ walk from the earlier Ganesha, this monolithic statue of Ganesha was damaged by the invaders. At 15 feet tall, it’s one of the tallest Ganesha statues I’ve ever seen. Its location is really great, a pillared porch on a rocky outcrop surrounded by hills. Quite scenic.

Kadlekalu Ganesha or Bengal Gram Ganesha statue in Hampi

 

  1. Laxmi Narasimha

Narasimha is considered an incarnation (avatar) of Vishnu. Laxmi Narasimha as seen in Hampi is also sometimes called Ugra (angry) Narasimha due to the statue’s facial expressions. There was originally a Laxmi statue present in Narasimha’s lap, but this was damaged during the invasion of Hampi. What remains is the Narasimha statue and just the hand of Lakshmi. This statue is the largest of all statues in Hampi.

 

The Laxmi Narasimha statue is the tallest statue in Hampi
Entering the Laxmi Narasimha Temple

 

  1. Badaviling Temple

Located just next to the Laxmi Narasimha, this is a 3-metre high Shivling, carved out of a single piece of rock. It is believed that it was made by a poor woman seeking to please the deity.

  1. Underground Shiva Temple

This Shiva temple was until recently partially under water. It is still getting excavated and cleaned up by the ASI but is worth a look if you visit.

  1. The Royal Enclosure

This was the heart of the daily life of the royal inhabitants of Hampi. The Royal Enclosure contained living quarters, water tanks, stables, durbar halls etc.

Elephant Stables – This is a set of 11 stables for the King’s favourite 11 elephants.

Lotus Mahal – This beautiful medley of Hindu and Islamic styles of architecture was a part of the Zenana complex, and used as a venue for recreation and meetings. It reminded me of structures I had seen at Fatehpur Sikri in Agra.

Hazara Rama Temple – This Rama temple was the only temple within the Royal Enclosure and was the location for all ceremonial rituals of the royal family. The bas-reliefs on its walls depict scenes from the Ramayana – and instantly reminded me of the bas-reliefs on the walls of Angkor Wat.

Mahanavmi Dibba – This 8m high platform probably exists in the same shape as it was made all those years ago. The King used to watch the Navami celebrations from here.

Queen’s Bath – This was an enclosed pool surrounded by corridors. The queen and her ladies used to go here for bathing and relaxation.

The Elephant Stables in the Royal Enclosures at Hampi
The Elephant Stables inside the Royal Enclosure

 

     8. Vijay Vitthal Temple

The Vitthal temple is as significant and well-known among the Hampi temples as is the Virupaksha temple. Avoid going here in the afternoon – visit early in the morning or in the evening. There is a dirt road about one km long that needs to be covered either on foot or by the shuttle bus, for which demand usually outruns supply. Vitthal temple is a Vishnu temple, and the highlights of this temple are the detailed carving, the various musical pillars (it is now forbidden to play music on these pillars to avoid damaging them further) and the huge stone chariot that is so intricately carved that it almost looks monolithic.

The Vijay Vitthal temple is one of the two most important temples in Hampi
The famous stone chariot of the Vijay Vitthal temple

9. Hemkuta Hill

Hemkuta Hill near the Sasivekalu Ganesha is a famous sunset point in Hampi. I had read about it and decided to give it a shot. It was a wonderful experience and I would recommend the sunset here to anybody. Get here at least half an hour before sunset to get a good place to sit, since it’s a very nice and peaceful place to relax. You get some amazing views of the surrounding hills. It’s a large enough hilltop to allow for a large number of people to gather without getting into each other’s space which is great.  

 

Other things to do in Hampi

Rock climbing: The rocky landscape with huge boulders attracts droves of rock climbing and bouldering aficionados to Hampi, with November and December being the peak period for this activity.

Wildlife watching: You can visit the Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary, the only such sanctuary for sloth bears in India. It is located just 15km away from Hampi.

Visit the Tungabhadra dam: Located just outside Hospet, this is the largest dam in Karnataka. There is a lighthouse here which offers great views of the surroundings. There is also a garden with a musical fountain, somewhat popular with visitors in the evenings.

Coracle ride: You can cross the Tungabhadra river by coracle (a traditional round boat) that are still used in Hampi to this today. Look for these near the Virupaksha temple ghats.

ASI Museum: This museum in Kamalapur houses the artefacts found during excavations here, and also explains Hampi’s history in detail. The museum remains closed on Mondays and public holidays.

Tungabhadra river at Hampi
Tungabhadra river and Hampi’s classic boulder-strewn landscape

 

How to reach Hampi

By train: The closest railway station is Hospet, a town located within 30 minutes’ driving distance from Hampi. If you take the overnight train Hampi Express from Bangalore (Bengaluru), this is where you will arrive. From Hospet, you can easily get to Hampi by local bus or by autorickshaw.

By bus: Hospet has bus connectivity with cities like Bangalore and Mysore. From here you can continue to Hampi by local buses or autorickshaws.

By air: Till March 2018, the closest airport for Hampi used to be Bangalore which is a drive of about six hours. Luckily, since then Trujet has introduced a Bangalore to Vidyanagar flight connection. The new airport at Vidyanagar (Bellary) is just about an hour’s drive from Hampi.  

By car: If you wish to drive yourself, you can also bring your own vehicle as the roads, for the most part, are in decent condition, except for a few bits in between. Take the route via Bellary. Hampi being a popular weekend destination, quite a few people drive down from Bangalore, Hyderabad, Goa and so on.

 

Where to stay in Hampi

Hampi has accommodation to suit all budgets and requirements. The local administration has recently shut down most homestays and guesthouses in the Hampi Bazaar area, so check before booking. Kamalapur in southern Hampi is not a bad place to stay. It’s not much in terms of ambience, but the location is great. It’s where the bus-stand and ASI Museum are. It also offers close access to the Royal Enclosure side of the ruins.  The hotel I stayed at (Clarks Inn) was more than satisfactory.

 

Best time to visit Hampi

Being located in southern India and in an extremely rocky terrain, Hampi has a dry and warm climate. Summers can be quite unbearable, so avoid visiting between April and July. If you are making a long and lazy trip and don’t mind a bit of rain, monsoon would be ideal. If a quick weekend is what you have in mind, then the cooler months of November to February are good.

 

Getting around Hampi

If you haven’t brought your own wheels, then you have quite a few options when it comes to local transportation. You could walk of course, but I would not recommend this. The Hampi ruins are spread over rather a large area and the hot weather can really sap your energy. If the weather and your fitness levels allow, you may hire bicycles from your hotel or one of the local bike-hire outfits. Some places also rent out scooters and motorcycles, but be careful to check that it’s a legit setup. The bike you hire must have a commercial licence plate or you may get into trouble with the police.

By far the most common and ubiquitous way of transport within Hampi is the autorickshaw. They are everywhere.  Drivers will usually negotiate a flat per-day rate with you to take you around the temples of Hampi. However, they are not guides, so if you want a guide in addition, that will cost you extra. If you prefer a hired car and driver, most Hampi hotels and guesthouses can arrange this as well.

 

Overlooking Virupaksha Temple from Hemkuta Hill at sundown in Hampi
Overlooking Virupaksha Temple from Hemkuta Hill at sundown

 

I’ve seen a lot of temples in India and found Hampi to be really unique. The ruins and their stories are fascinating, and the quality of workmanship in the sculptures is outstanding. I do wish the local administration would focus on infrastructure development here. Given proper maintenance, better roads, shuttle buses, trained guides, etc., Hampi can easily be India’s Angkor Wat. In fact, I didn’t get enough of Hampi in two days and know that I will be back soon enough. 

 

Have you ever visited Hampi? What was your favourite part of the trip? I’d love to hear about it in the comments!

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Two Traveling Texans

#Travel tips on what to see and do in two days in #Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Bangalore in southern India

70 thoughts on “Temples, Coconuts and Ganesha: Hampi in Two Days

  1. Hampi has been in my list from long time..specially being in bangalore. Hope to make it soon. Great post thanks for sharing info.i think i will plan soon

    1. Neha

      Yes, well one could spread it over a few more days but most people only get like a long weekend or something 🙂
      . It’s small enough to make things easy though.

  2. I’ve never been to India but would be interested in visiting one day. I also love history and architecture so being able to see these monumental structures would be thrilling. Thanks for sharing these great tips!

  3. I suppose 2 days should cover a fair bit, though 4000 hectares is so huge, one would need several days to explore it all. I believe the drive from Bangalore to Hampi is also very enjoyable. Going from Delhi, for us, it would mean 8-9 hours to get to our destination, but would be worth it.

    1. Neha

      Most of the main structures are clustered together, so you can easily combine visits to 3-4 in one shot. Ideally I would have liked to spend 4-5 days and take my time exploring, but I only had a long weekend, so I did the main highlights and left some of the minor structures for another time. The drive is okay, it’s a highway so not much to see. Ideally if going from Delhi and not keen on a long drive, you could try to schedule it in such a way that you can either make the overnight train or the once a day flight Bangalore to Vidyanagar, at least one way, which will save you a drive.

  4. The Vijay Vitthal Temple looks so beautiful! I agree on getting earl to some of these popular places. Sometimes getting less sleep is worth have a place all to yourself. This is especially true for sunsets! Hemkuta Hill seems like a fantastic place to enjoy the morning.

  5. Historic travel trips is my type of thing. Although I have India on my list, Hampi is one of those places I have never heard of. But it seems to have a lot of history hold still. SO ofcourse I will be putting Hampi on my travel itinerary.

    1. Neha

      Yes Sujenne Hampi doesn’t get the kind of press that the bigger historical attractions in the country do, which in my opinion is a crying shame. I’m sure you’ll love it whenever you visit. Just avoid going in the warm weather 🙂

  6. I have such a fascination with Ganesha. I’m not sure if it’s because he is an elephant and protrayed so beautifully or because he is the God of success and good fortune. Beautifully written post and very fascinating to read. Thank you!

  7. Kris

    I’m a total history buff too. I love exploring historic sites and ancient ruins on my travels. There’s just so much to learn. I’m totally in awe of the craftsmanship on the stone chariot.

  8. Oh boy, my list of things to do and places to see when I eventually visit India grows each day. Thank you for this. I am always looking for less popular but wonderful little places amongst a sea of popular attraction options!

  9. Wow, this was an interesting post to read. I loved the details you included, it’s what I would have wanted to know. Thanks for being so thorough. Hampi wasn’t even on my radar, but now it is.

    Oh and btw I had no idea that modern day Hampi was Kishkinda. I am a total sucker for such mytho related insights, so thanks for sharing. 🙂

  10. Anisa

    Hampi looks beautiful. I love the architecture and details of the temples plus the laid-back feel makes it sound like a great place to escape for a few days.

  11. Hampi is definitely in my bucket list. I will definitely visit next time I will be in India. Superb blog! it will be a great historic guide.

  12. Firstly Those Elephant stables are incredible. I can imagine they were and integral part of the life and worship also. Secondly the 15 ft Ganesha statue would be the highlight for me. What a great and practical article with everything on the need to know. thanks

  13. I can’t believe I’ve never heard of this temple complex because it sounds incredible. The elephant stables and watching the sunset on Hemkuta Hill really stand out, though all of it sounds wonderful. I appreciate all the practical tips as well. Can’t wait to go! 🙂

  14. I still have yet to make it to India, but am saving this for when I do. Your description of it being the Angor Wat of India has sold me alone. Sounds like there’s so much to do in Hampi – thanks for this useful guide, and for linking it up with #farawayfiles

  15. I am not familiar with the Hindu religion The history and stories are fascinating. It is sad that this area was destroyed in the 16th century but the remaining and rebuilt statues and structures are beautiful.

    1. Neha

      Thank you Clare. It was my first visit and I was left wondering why I hadn’t visited all this while. Hope to go back someday!

  16. This looks like an amazing place to visit! I hope to make it to India someday, and will pin this for when I do! Thank you for sharing on #farawayfiles

  17. This is so nice to read – such a lovely reminder of a great trip I had there around 8 or 9 years ago. We found it to be such a chilled-out place (except we were there at Diwali and kids were setting off firecrackers in the street!). We especially eating banana pancakes on the rooftop restaurants, enjoying the view – oh and the glorious sunset from Hemkuta Hill.

  18. As a big fan of temples, I will have to explore Hampi as soon as possible, Neha. It’s wonderful how you managed to make an itinerary to see so many places in such a short time. How did you explore all these temples, was it on foot?

    1. Neha

      You will love Hampi Lydia. Since I was driving down from Bangalore, I had hired a car and driver for the two-day trip. The sites are quite compact, so you can actually see quite a lot in a day. That said, I do wish I’d had more time for exploration. But that’s what second visits are for 🙂

  19. Reading about the state it was before the 16th century and the state it was in after the invasion gave me a heartbreak. Really. Such a beautiful, rich place falling to ruins is really so sad! The temples are simply magnificent. My SIL went to Hampi last year, albeit for a short period and for some family function. Maybe the next time I will ask her to visit it and take in its beauty!

    1. Neha

      Yes the history is definitely sad. When you see the quality of architecture, you do wonder what standards the civilisation could have reached if the city hadn’t been destroyed. Maybe you should join your SIL for a visit 🙂

    1. Neha

      Yes Lorelei Hampi is relatively lesser known than some of the other more famous parts of India, but it’s brilliant. Thanks for stopping by.

  20. India has been on my list for awhile now, so much to see! I’ve never heard of Hampi, but it looks incredible – so much history! Definitely keeping this on my radar, thanks for all of the great information 🙂 #TheWeeklyPostcard

    1. Neha

      It’s somewhat lesser known than the usual suspects from India, but definitely worth a visit. Hope you can make a visit sometime. Thanks for stopping by 😊

  21. Anisa

    I love history, so sounds like I would love Hampi. I love the architecture too and would love to learn more about the artefacts. Thank goodness they built a new airport to make it easier to get to. Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.

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